Showing posts with label tutorials. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorials. Show all posts

Sunday, October 18, 2009

How To Make Cold Porceline Flowers???

Same As Soap Flower.

Try this too..

More realistic flowers...

you will say wow....

What you'll need:

3/4 cup white glue
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon cold cream (such as Pond's)
1 teaspoon glycerin
1 cup cornstarch, plus additional for dusting your hands


Assemble all your ingredients before you begin. If you have trouble finding glycerin, try a drugstore's skin care aisle, or a cake-decorating store.

If possible, use an old saucepan and spoon for this process. The ingredients in cold porcelain aren't toxic, but they can be sticky, so don't use your best utensils!

For Detailed Tutorial visit

http://www.craftstylish.com/item/2802/how-to-make-cold-porcelain


Friday, October 16, 2009

How To Make Quilt???

Quilting is a fun and practical way to pass time. You can be as creative as you like, but you will finish with a blanket to keep you warm at night and pass down to your children or grandchildren. However, it can be a long and labor intensive process, so be prepared!

Steps

  1. Choose a pattern and fabric. You can look online for free quilt block patterns by using a search engine. You can also look in books or talk to people who you know that have made quilts. Selecting your pattern may affect what fabric you would like to use, or vice versa. A whimsical pattern of animals or flowers might look better in bright solid colors, or a quilt of your old baby clothing might look better in a more traditional pattern.
  2. Some quilters like to pre-wash fabrics and say that this prevents colour runs and takes care of any shrinking. Others prefer not washing fabric, since it can be easier to cut and lets you get started more quickly. Either way, treat all your fabric the same -- wash it all or don't wash it all. If you opt not to wash, you may want to test a small amount for color fastness by putting a snip in warm water and seeing if it runs. If it does, you'll need to wash it to get the extra dye out.
  3. Cut out your pattern. This is a very important step. You need to be very precise. It you don't cut the pieces right, the quilt block won't line up correctly. The best way to get an accurate cut is with a rotary cutter, a self-healing mat, and a quilter's ruler. These make all the difference in the world.
  4. Sew each block together using a 1/4" seam allowance. You can mark your sewing maching throat plate with a piece of masking tape to ensure that your 1/4" seam allowance is accurate. Some machines have a quarter inch foot that makes this easy. Most patterns will come with directions, telling you how to piece the pieces together. Usually, though, you want to put the pieces together so that you are always sewing a straight line. It is difficult to sew around corners. More advanced techniques such as appliqué, where you fold the edges under to sew a curvy piece on top of the block, should wait until at least your second quilt.
  5. Once you have all the blocks made (how many you make will depend on how big they are and how big of a quilt you want to make) you should decide if you would like to put borders on the quilt. Many quilts have strips of fabric around all of the blocks as well as a border or two or three around the outside edge. This is a great way to make up square footage on the quilt if you didn't feel like making up enough blocks for the entire size that you want. Cut long strips of fabric and sew them to the blocks, once again trying to always sew only straight lines. Use these strips to sew all of the blocks together until you have one large piece. Then sew the outside border pieces on.
  6. Select your batting. Batting comes in several different shapes and types. High loft batting is thicker and will make a "poofier" quilt. Low loft batting is thinner and may be easier to quilt, but it won't be as warm. There is also fusible batting, it can be ironed to the top and bottom pieces, sticking to both, so you won't have to baste.
  7. Select your backing material. This is usually a large piece of solid fabric. If you are making a large quilt, you may need to piece together full widths of fabric, since fabric usually comes in 45" or 60" widths and a queen size quilt may be 66" square. If you would like to use the backing material to edge the quilt, make sure the fabric is a couple of inches too big in every direction.
  8. Baste the three layers (top, batting, backing) together. If you bought fusible batting, you will just need to iron the three layers. But, if you bought regular batting, you should lay out the three layers on top of each other, select a contrasting thread (so you can remove it easily later) and sew the three layers together. Start in the middle and work your way out in each direction, smoothing out any wrinkles as you go. A great substitute to basting is using safety pins. Put them every 3-4", starting at the center.
  9. Once all the layers are together, you need to use a matching thread, or contrasting if you like the look, and sew the layers together. Start from the middle and work your way out, trying to use small, even stitches. You will get better as you practice, and no one will ever notice if you are a little messy. The quilt block pattern may have included quilting directions. If it didn't, you usually just "stitch in the ditch." This means you follow all of the seams in the quilt block and borders, keeping your stitching about a quarter of an inch away from the seam. You might also ask at your local quilt shop for someone who does machine quilting. You give them the top, batting and back and they'll quilt it for you on a long-arm machine. You'll still need to put the binding on (see below).
  10. Remove the basting (if necessary) and finish the edges of the quilt. You should trim all of the layers so that they are the same on the edges (if you want to use the backing fabric, just trim it so that it is an even inch and a half longer than the other layers all the way around). You can buy bias tape to sew along the edges. This you will sew lengthwise on one side all along the edges, then wrap it around to the other side and sew again. Or you can use the backing fabric, just fold in the raw edge, fold it over to the top of the quilt, and sew it down all the way around. With either method, take your time on the corners, as they are a little tricky. Just keep messing with them, folding in the extra fabric, until they look good.
  11. If you would like, you can sign the corner of the backside of the quilt with the date and your name. You can also include the name of the pattern or who the quilt is intended for if you would like. Write lightly with an ink that won't wash out.

[edit]Tips

  • Try to buy all of the fabric for the top before you get started. This will keep you from running out in the middle and having to improvise. Also, it will help you make sure that all of the fabrics will go together.
  • If you would like to use stretchy fabric (like old t-shirts) there is a product that you can buy to iron onto the fabric to keep it from stretching. Don't try to quilt with stretchy fabric.
  • Muslin is a great choice for backing fabric. It comes in wider widths, so you won't have to piece it together, and it is all cotton, so you can easily dye it to match your quilt's theme.
  • When quilting, a quilting frame is very helpful. It is basically a large embroidery hoop that sits on a stand. It will keep the fabric taut, so you don't sew in wrinkles, and it will hold it at about lap level. After several hours of quilting, your quilt will seem very heavy.
  • When hand quilting, a neat trick is to pop the knots into the batting. As you reach the end of a piece of thread, or a section of quilting, use the needle to tie a knot close to the surface of the fabric. Then, pull the needle through the quilt one more time. When you feel the knot reach the surface of the fabric, tug sharply, and the knot will "pop" into the fabric. You can then trim the thread close to the surface of the fabric without worrying that it will come undone.
  • You may want to practice on a smaller quilt before starting a huge one.

Things You'll Need

  • Fabric for quilt top
  • Quilt block patterns
  • Batting
  • Fabric for back of quilt
  • Thread (cotton)
  • Hand sewing needles if piecing the top by hand
  • Quilting needles if quilting by hand
  • Cardboard for making stencil and tailor's chalk
  • Bias tape
  • Quilting frame
  • Lots of time
  • Rotary cutter
  • Cutting Board
  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Long pins
  • Pin cushion
  • Seam ripper




Thursday, October 8, 2009

How To Make Fabric Painting on chudidar/salwar/tshirt???

How to do Fabric Painting on Salwar/chudidar/tshirts?

1. .Stitching the salwar before painting will be good to design the neck and sleeves.

2. Get a good pattern from the net / any other design books.

3. Pansies will be great for tshirts.

4. Use brushes 4,5,0.

5. Just follow the steps in fabric painting.

How To Make Fabric Painting??

How to do fabric painting?

1. Take a cotton cloth.

2. Remove the starch using cotton and let it dry.

3. Use frames that are used for embroiding and trace the pattern you want

4. Use fabric paint carefully to paint on the cloth.

5. Let it dry for a day

6. Iron the backside of cloth after 72 hours.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

How To Make Easy Paintings?

I wanted to make tanjore paintings, but i couldnt find supply shop for a arabic gum. so
i came up with this idea. this is just a way to paint the gods. i m very satisfied with the
results.


Materials needed

1. tracing design
2. chart paper
3. poster colours
4. fevicryl 3D golden glitter
5. Kundan Stones

Procedure.

1. Trace the design that you want to paint in chart.
2. draw if you can and confident that you can make it with the symmetry as in the picture
3. Use Poster colours to paint. Use some Great colours at the backround.
4. After the paint dries use 3D gold to make the painting rich looking.
5. Use Kundan stones for the spots in the painting.
6. Let it dry for hours.


You can find many of designs in GETCRAFTY. It is a wonderful place where you can
find many craft ideas and designs.

How to Do Madhubani Painting??

1.trace or draw a design just like above

2. use only dark colours like blue,red and green

3. the lines drawn in between are the important things in this type of painting.

4. use natural colour for a very true madhubani painting.


Tanjore Paintings and Steps Make Them

[The painting above is by GETCRAFTY- madhavi... One of her skillful creations]

Tanjore painting (Tamil Language: தஞ்சாவூர் ஓவியம், Thanjavur Oviyam) is an important form of classicalSouth Indian painting native to the town of Thanjavur(anglicized as Tanjore) in Tamil Nadu. The art form dates back to about 1600CE, a period when Nayakas of Tanjavur encouraged art- chiefly, classical dance and music as well as literature both in Telugu and Tamil. Tanjore Paintings are known for their surface richness, vivid colours and compact composition. Essentially serving as devotional icons, the themes of most of these paintings areHindu gods and goddesses, and saints as well. Episodes from Hindu tradition are drawn upon as elaboration to the main figure / figures placed in the central section of the picture. Tanjore paintings are in fact panel paintings (done on solid wood planks ) and hence were also referred to as 'palagai padam'( palagai - wooden plank ; padam- picture) in local parlance. In modern times, these paintings have become a much sought after as souvenir during festive occasions in South India; or as pieces to decorate the walls ; or as collectors' item by art lovers.

The process of making a Tanjore painting involves many stages. The first stage involves the making of the preliminary sketch of the image on the base. The base consists of a cloth pasted over a wooden base. Then chalk powder orzinc oxide is mixed with water-soluble adhesive and applied on the base. To make the base smoother, a mild abrasive is sometimes used. After the drawing is made, decoration of the jewellery and the apparels in the image is done with semi-precious stones also known as Jaipur stones. Laces or threads are also used to decorate the jewellery. On top of this, the gold foils are pasted. Finally,dyes are used to add colors to the figures in the paintings.

High quality gold foil is used to ensure the paintings lasts generations and becomes family heirlooms. They generally appreciate in value and are considered collectibles. Paintings come in three finishes, Classic, Antinque Style and Embossed. In the classic finish, bold colors and striking backgrounds are combined with high glitter gold foil, while in the antique style, the gold's glitter is more sober with more subtle colors and plain backgrounds. The emboss paintings are similar to the classic style but are super embossed to bring about more depth.



STEPS INVOLVED:

STEP 1. Preparing the board to make the painting.
STEP 2 Sketching the figure and fixing the stones.
STEP 3 Filling around the stone work with a thin mix of gum and chalk powder.
Inlay and relief work around the stone setting with a thicker mix.
STEP 4 Cleaning the work and fixing the gold foil over the stones and relief work.
STEP 5 Cutting the gold foil to expose the stone work.
STEP 6 Painting the figures and the background
STEP 7 Checking for flaws, correcting and fixing the glass and frame.


Here are the materials we require to make a Tanjore Painting.

1. Plywood above 6 mm thickness.

2. Soft white cloth preferably mal-mal cloth, 2 inches wider and longer than your board.

3. Chalk power.

4. Tamarind seed powder

5. Fevicol.

6. Flat Brush (above 3" width).

7. Sand Paper (emery sheet).

8. Arabic Gum.

9. Coloured Jaipur Stones.

10. Gold foil (paster on papar)

11. Poster Colors.

12. Rounded Brushes (000, 0, 2, 4, 6,8)

13. Black Pilot Pen / Indian ink.

14. Multi coloured transparent ink (photo color).

15. Cutter, Ruler, Yellow carbon paper, pencil.

16. Reference art to trace

And now I give you the method to prepare the board for painting.

a)Soften the edges of the plywood board.

b)Mix the tamarind seed powder with enough water to make a loose paste; sieve it into a vessel and boil this mixture, stirring continuously until a thick glassy consistency is formed. Add water if the necessary; Allow this to cool.

c)If you are using a 6”*6” board, cut two pieces of the mal-mal cloth of 8”*8”.

d)After the mixture has cooled, coat the board evenly with the mixture using your fingers; then lay the first piece of cloth on the board, stretching it neatly. Even it out so that it sticks to the board with the gum.

e)Next apply more of the paste to the board, on the first cloth in the same manner and lay the second piece of cloth also as the first one.

f)Turn it around and apply the glue paste to the edges and stick the remaining cloth (both pieces together) tightly.



g)Coat the top with more gum and smoothen it out; Keep it out in the sun to dry for about an hour.

h)To the remaining tamarind seed glue, add chalk powder little by little and make a paste, just thick enough to coat on the dried board with a big flat brush, without lumps.

i)When the board is dried, bring it in and coat it with the gum + chalk powder mixture evenly, starting from the middle and working towards the edges, first horizontally and then vertically.

j)Leave this out by the sun to dry for about an hour. If the coating has cracked, your mixture was too thick. If it isn’t, then polish the board with emery / sand paper in a circular motion starting form the centre. Dust it with a dry soft brush and voila your board is ready.



The next step is sketching the figure and fixing the stones.

Start by choosing a design and then trace the design using yellow carbon paper onto your canvas. In this stage do not trace the image in detail. I.e. while tracing the ornaments just trace the outlines only and not the details of the shapes. This trace is to judge the area to be decorative and shapes of the figure. At this stage remember to provide a margin recess on all the four sides of the board to accommodate the final frame, after the painting is completed.





Next apply a smooth layer of embossing gum in the decorative areas as lines or dots or whatever shapes you require, using a round/flat brush. The ratio of embossing layer should be Arabic Gum: Chalk powder: fevicol - 1:2:1. Now place the stones and pearls on the wet gum at points where you have decided to place them, using tweezers. The canvas should then be left for a day or two to dry.


The next step is filling around the stone work with a thin mixture of gum and chalk powder. Then, for inlay and relief work around the stone setting, fill with a thicker mix. This is to get a higher embossment in certain areas. Then allow it to dry for an hour or so.

Now for cleaning the work and fixing the gold foil over the stones and relief work, use a wet ear-bud, rub in circles around the stones and pearls to clean any traces of gum or paste on them. Also remember to keep the painting area clean during this process.


For fixing the gold foil, first cut a gold foil sheet from the Gold foil booklet. Place the gold foil sheet over the design and mark an edge impression with your thumb for approximate shape. Cut the require shape of gold foil by leaving 3 to 4 mm extra on all the sides of the required shape. Apply normal glue to the back side of the gold foil using your brush numbered 2 or 4 and place over the required area and press it with a folded cloth without moving (to avoid tearing the foil).






How to Do Coffee Painting?

Its just like other paintings. jus like water colour paintings.
In handmade paper, preferably light shade colours trace the design using yellow carbon.
Paint using coffee decotion, certain areas can be left without painting, if u want darker shade paint the area once again.
If u want to do the outline with coffee, keep the decotion overnight, it will become a bit dry so it will be easy.
U can add the 3 D glitters to add effect in case of egyptian paintings